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Your stickers,
printed like they matter

Specializing in furry stickers!

Five years of experience, with professional processes behind every order. All files are processed by hand before anything prints.

Tokata, the fluffyprints mascot
★ hi, i'm tokata

Four reasons to send me your artwork

Furry made

For furries made by furries! Every order is handled with uttermost care!

Nine inks

Most printing processes uses four inks to mix for each color. I use nine, including a real orange and red, so bright colors stay vibrant.

5.5 mil, made in the USA

Vinyl under a gloss laminate. Outdoor rated, waterproof, dishwasher safe, and still removable years later.

Accurate order tracking

Seven timestamped steps, plus how many orders are ahead of yours.

nine inks, not four.

Real prints

Every one of these came off my printer. Real orders and customers.

How long it actually lasts

Try it

Pick one and see what happens. Nothing here hurts the stickers.

Most people never think about what a sticker is made of, but it's the whole difference between one that's still there in three years and one that curls off in a month.

Cross-section of the sticker build Sun, water and scratches rain down on the sticker and stop at the top layer, 2.75 mil of clear laminate. Directly under it sits your printed art, carried on 2.75 mil of vinyl, with the adhesive underneath. The two films together total 5.5 mil. 2.75 MIL LAMINATE 2.75 MIL VINYL YOUR ART ADHESIVE TOTAL 5.5 MIL

The vinyl. The bottom layer is 2.75 mil polymeric vinyl. Polymeric is the high grade, and it's the good stuff. Cheaper stickers use monomeric vinyl, which slowly shrinks as it ages. That's what makes corners curl and lift, and why a cheap sticker looks crusty after a year.

Cheaper still is paper. A lot of stickers are just printed paper with adhesive on the back. Paper soaks up water, the corners fray, and one good rain finishes it off. It's fine in a sticker book. It isn't something you'd put on a water bottle.

The laminate. On top goes another 2.75 mil of gloss laminate with UV absorbers in it. Most stickers you've bought are a single layer with the ink sitting right on the surface. This is a second clear film over the print, and its only job is absorbing everything the world does to a sticker.

Together that's 5.5 mil, and both films are made in the USA. You can feel it the moment you pick one up.

you'll get bored of the sticker long before it gets bored of you.

The part that takes the time

Big printers are good at printing. What they don't do is look at your file. It goes into a queue with a few thousand others, then gets whatever the machine was set to, and ships out. Nobody looked at it.

That's the part I do differently, and it comes down to three things.

Color

Most printing uses four inks: cyan, magenta, yellow and black. Every color gets mixed from those four, and mixing can't reach everything. Saturated reds come out closer to orange. If your sticker's colors live out at that end, four-ink printing quietly dulls your colors and tones.

My printer runs nine inks. Orange and red are their own inks rather than mixes, and three lighter inks are in there to keep gradients smooth, so soft fur shading prints soft instead of breaking into visible bands.

Then I calibrate it monthly against the exact vinyl I print on, and I spend a lot of time on that. A printer that hasn't been calibrated still prints fine. But the colors are just wrong, and nothing about the print tells you that. You find out when the stickers arrive. It's boring work, but it's the whole reason your colors come out looking perfect.

This is why I ask for RGB files. Other companies tell you to convert to CMYK first. Please don't. Converting messes up your colors and ruins the file. Send RGB and it'll look just like you intended.

Cutting

Cheap cutters drag a fixed blade around your shape. Corners get rounded off and tight curves wobble.

We use what's called a tangential head. It lifts the blade out of the vinyl, turns it to face the new direction, and sets it back down, and it does that at every single corner. That's why sharp corners stay sharp. It also reads small printed marks on the sheet to work out exactly where your artwork sits, and cuts to within four thousandths of an inch of it. Every detail comes out precise.

And me, actually looking at it

Every file gets opened by hand before anything prints. I set the bleed, check the cut line, and look at whether your linework will hold up at the size you asked for. If something's going to print badly, you'll hear from me before any production. It doesn't scale, which is why bigger shops don't do it.

You'll always know where your order is

Most shops give you one word: processing. It doesn't mean anything and it doesn't change for two weeks.

Every order gets its own page showing seven steps:

Each one is stamped with when it actually happens. “Files proofed” is me in Illustrator.

Ahead of you right now 3

While you're waiting, the page also tells you how many orders are ahead of yours. The number goes down as I work through them.

No account needed. The link in your order email will send you directly to the page.

How ordering works

  1. Upload your artwork

    PNG is best. I'll also take JPG, WEBP, AVIF, PSD, PDF and SVG.

  2. Set the longest edge in inches

    The other side follows your art's own proportions automatically.

  3. Pick a quantity

    A price list appears for the size you set.

  4. Add another design if you want

    One order can hold as many as you like, each with its own size and quantity.

  5. Pay

    Your tracking page goes live straight away.

After that it's on me. I process the file, set the bleed, sort out the cut lines, and lay everything onto the roll. Then it prints, gets laminated, gets cut, and goes in a bubble mailer. Your tracking page fills in as each of those happens.

Want a rough idea of cost first? There's a calculator on the pricing page.

Sending me good files

It's pretty simple, and nothing gets turned away for being the wrong type. If something's off, I'll tell you before I start printing.

PNG is best

I'll also take JPG, WEBP, AVIF, PSD, PDF and SVG.

300 PPI at print size

Anything above that is perfectly fine, and you never need to edit your file to change PPI. 150 still works. Below that art starts to look soft.

RGB, never CMYK

For the reasons in Color, above.

Transparent background

On anything that isn't a rectangle. This makes it easier for me to process. If you don't have a PNG, you can send me the original source art file with layer information so I can separate it for you.

No cut lines

Just send the art. I'll take care of the cut and bleed.

No bleed border either

Unless you want an exact shape or color of bleed. It doesn't have to be white: if you'd rather the border around your sticker was black, or pink, or matched to your character, just say so when you order.

The practical stuff

$20 minimum
Minimum charge for any order.
Quantities come in full rows
The price list won't offer you 37 of something. Stickers print in rows across the roll, and a part-used row still costs the full width of it, so the quantities you can pick are the ones that fill a row exactly. It's also why the price per sticker drops the way it does.
1 to 2 weeks
From payment to completed stickers, plus shipping time on top. If you are ordering for a convention, please order ahead of time! (Everyone starts ordering stickers last minute!)
Shipping is US only
For now, calculated at checkout.
If something's wrong, email me
I will do my best to sort out any issues!
Mature artwork is accepted
I print anything you want, and it ships in the same plain packaging as everything else.

Stickers explained

Cut types

Kiss cut compared with die cut: how deep the blade goes and what you end up holding One cross-section of the same three layers: laminate on top, printed vinyl in the middle, backing paper underneath. Two blades cut into the same stack. The kiss cut blade passes through the laminate and vinyl and stops at the backing, which stays whole, so the finished sticker stays on a sheet of backing until you peel it off. The die cut blade passes through all three layers, backing included, so the finished sticker comes out as a loose shape on its own. KISS CUT DIE CUT LAMINATE VINYL BACKING STAYS ON ITS SHEET COMES OUT LOOSE
how deep the blade goes
Kiss cut.
The blade cuts through the vinyl but not the backing, so your sticker stays on a rectangle of paper until you peel it off. Almost everything I make is kiss cut, and it's the more accurate of the two. The backing holds every piece exactly where it was printed, so the cut can follow a complicated outline without anything shifting.
Die cut.
The blade cuts all the way through, backing included, so the sticker comes out as a loose shape. I offer this for simple shapes: circles, squares, ovals and rectangles. I don't offer it for complicated outlines, because cutting all the way through is less accurate.
If you're not sure, pick kiss cut. It's what most people want.
Sticker sheet.
Several designs kiss cut onto one backing sheet, usually with a printed background. Please tell me in your order notes if an uploaded design is a sticker sheet.
Backing.
The paper your sticker sits on before you peel it off.

Material words

Vinyl
The plastic film your sticker is printed on.
Polymeric and monomeric
Two grades of vinyl. Polymeric holds its shape as it ages. Monomeric is cheaper and shrinks, which is what makes corners lift. I only use polymeric vinyl.
Laminate
A clear film applied over the print. All the wear happens to it instead of to your artwork.
Mil
How thick a film is. One mil is a thousandth of an inch. I use thin but premium-feeling materials totaling 5.5 mil once the vinyl and laminate are together.
Gloss
Shiny finish. It's the only finish I offer right now.

Order words

Proof
Me checking your file over before it prints, at the size you asked for.
Row
One line of stickers across the width of the roll. Prices work in whole rows.
Bleed
A small margin of extra color around the edge of a design, so the cut never leaves a white sliver. I add this for you.
PPI
Pixels per inch, meaning how much detail your file has at print size. 300 is ideal, and 150 is useable too.

Questions I get asked

Can I get matte or holographic?

Not right now. Everything I make is gloss. It's the finish that provides the best colors and highest durability.

Do you ship outside the US?

Not at the moment.

I need these by a convention date. Can you make it?

Production is 1 to 2 weeks plus shipping, so please order as soon as you can to make sure I can get it to you before any convention!

Can I reorder something I've had before?

Yes. Just upload the same artwork again and set it up the way you did last time.

What if my art isn't high enough resolution?

You'll see a warning before you pay. You can get away with surprisingly low resolution, since a sticker is normally viewed from about 12 inches away.

Do you print things that aren't furry?

Yes, I can print any other stickers as well.

Can I have a different border color?

Yes. Just say so when you order.

Do you print mature artwork?

I print anything you send me.

What size should my sticker be?

The most common size is 2 to 3 inches.

About me

I've been printing stickers for five years. For a lot of that time I printed whatever came through the door. It was fine work, but it wasn't the work I was passionate about.

So I narrowed it down to making furry stickers, and I love it! Thank you to everyone who has supported me.

If you've got art you want printed, I'd like to print it.

░ made with care ░ peel & stick ░